4 May 2011, Caneel Bay to Mahoe Bay, USVI

Marine Forecast: beautiful!

Even after a sleepless night, Ginger couldn’t help but be a little smug while writing postcards and watching the sun rise over Caneel Bay. And the day only got better. Over breakfast, we decided to check out the Caneel Bay resort. Since it was built in the 1930’s, I’d thought it would be art deco but it was more of a Frank Lloyd Wright aesthetic with long low buildings open towards the water.

The red-striped taxis in Cruz Bay were eerily like the golf carts in The Prisoner, and the manicured grass at the resort just added to the genteel incarceration effect. We were welcomed cordially, though, and instructed *not* to sit on the beach chairs. But the gift shop was good: postcards, more sunscreen, but no sunglasses even though the backs and insides of Ginger’s ears were a raging itch. The bathrooms were good: AC, tile, nice hand towels. It really is amazing how welcoming of boaters the resorts are, especially in the low-ish season. Definitely not a privilege to abuse, but an interesting way to see places we normally wouldn’t go (Caneel Bay 9-10).

We motored up to Mahoe Bay (11-11:30), had our pick of mooring balls, and geared up for a dinghy trip to Trunk Bay (1pm). Unfortunately, we turned in one bay too soon, so we practiced our 2-person dinghy beaching drill in Cinnamon Bay. We shared a sandwich, then ran it out into the surf where Ginger practiced her shallow-water-dinghy-start magic and zipped over to Trunk Bay. Tied up at the dinghy line (thanks US National Parks!) and swam in to look at the underwater snorkel trail. Very cool but not as many fish as The Caves. Lots o’ sea urchins, though.

And then we thought, why not eat lunch on shore? So The Skipper swims out, dinghies in the food to Ginger waiting in the surf, parks and swims back. Honeymoon! We share a sandwich and some very warm Caribs under the trees, look at the white beach and light blue water and the afternoon rainstorm blowing through behind Jost Van Dyke, and keep poking one another to make sure this isn’t a dream.

The Skipper retrieves Ginger and the food from the surf zone and we make it to the boat just as the rain starts (4pm). Nap, drinks, sunset, dinner: one of those Indian foil pouches of chick peas over boiled potatoes. The rum and tonic and lime come out as does a huge sky of stars and we watch the Big Dipper wheel around the mast.

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