30 April 2011, North Sound, Virgin Gorda, BVI

Marine Forecast: East winds 11-16 knots, seas 3 to 5 feet, isolated showers
Actual: winds 18-21, seas 1-2 feet

Up before the sunrise over North Sound, Ginger kept quiet so The Skipper could sleep and tried to read a bit. After tea, we decided to postpone our trip to Anegada by one day and hang out in the North Sound. We were off the dock by 8 and decided to use the steady 15-20 knot breeze and relatively small swell to sort out the boat handling issues. I made loops off Gnat Point while The Skipper read up on sail trim for weather helm and then we tacked around and futzed with sails and lines till we were both happy (8:30-12:30). Time well spent.

We picked up a Bitter End Yacht Club mooring ball, had boat drinks and snacks, and then dinghied in for a look-see about lunch. Resorts kind of creep me out with their extreme orderliness. BEYC was no different, but the plants were pretty, and the style of the buildings was low key in a posh way. There weren’t many people around, and the person at the reservation desk generously invited us to use the beach chairs since they weren’t busy. Not the case, I’m sure, during high season. The Skipper had the winning lunch of grilled cheese with bacon and tomato and an icy Carib in the main dining area. I should have known better than to order falafel and white wine – two imports that didn’t make the trip well.

And then I found the bathroom! Air-conditioned, dark, spacious, and not-moving!! I was loving the trip and the boat so far, but this was such a nice treat. We looked for postcards (score, plus stamps at the front desk) and sunglasses since the backs of my ears were chafed and itching (no luck). We strolled over to Birras Creek Resort so I could comparison shop on the bathrooms, but it was even more deserted, so we de-camped to the boat for drinks and a nap. Jellyfish warnings were up, so no swimming.

We went back in the early evening for a drink and sunset at the bar/grille. Maybe it was because they served drinks in for-real pint glasses or because they mixed the drinks strong, but I’d wager BEYC has the best painkiller and dark/stormy in the area. I made sure to sample as we went along, but that evening stands out. The sky was silver, then gold-red, and then silver again. On our drive back to the boat, The Skipper noted several fireballs from grills off the end of some neighbors’ boats, and we were glad we weren’t too close to them or their full tanks of dinghy fuel. Dinner was linguine with garlic and smoked clams followed by more boat drinks while listening to the crickets. And on the fourth night, I slept.

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